Denis Urubko k2 solo is started alone for summit
Denis Urubko k2 solo.
There is no peace in Pakistan this winter. We left Denis Urubko after the incredible rescue operation to Elisabeth Revol in Nanga Parbat. In that operation, we remember Tomek Mackiewicz dies. He rests on the Diamir face at 7280 mt asl. After that operation, Denis and his friends go back to K2 base camp.
The winter K2 expedition is a Polish National expedition. Denis Urubko has invited to participate and they gave him the Polish passport. There is a discussion on the mountaineer’s world. Urubko sustains that the real winter is the meteorological winter and not the astronomical winter. So for him, the winter will finish 28 February.
The Polish expedition is managed by Krzysztof Wielecki. He is an expert and great Polish mountaineers of the past. We need to remember also K2 is the last eight-thousanders not climbed yet in winter.
After Nanga Parbat rescue operation
When they came back from Nanga Parbat the went to k2 at their base camp. The Cesen route, that was chosen by Wielecki was in very bad conditions. The winds very strong don’t permit to climb. After two important accidents occurred to Adam Bielecki and another climber, the decision. Stop the operations in the Cesen route and they transfer to the Abruzzi route.
The Abruzzi route is more protected from the wind. So the climbing can be concentrate on technical aspects. In this week Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki were on the wall. They are arrived up to 7200 mt and all was good. It was the camp 3 position. But unexpected arrived the order from Wielecki to go back to base camp.
The difference between a true warrior and a soldier
From some days was clear the Denis Urubko K2 expectation was very different from the manager plans.
It is 24 and for him, winter will finish 28. We don’t think Urubko decides to participate just for to say yes to the boss. He wants the K2, so today early morning he left the tent and he starts to climb the mountain alone.
For who don’t know this kind of mountaineering, don’t think is a naughty child. NO Denis Urubko had to calculate the situation and he understands he has more possibility alone.
One thing is sure, just the better climbers of ever had the force even moral for to take a decision like this. The technical difficulties are big and alone are huge. He doesn’t have any kind of protection. He can’t have any support up to the camp 3. We hope tomorrow a crew will go to install the camps in support of descending.
But is not a very big help because the technical issues are higher. The Shoulder is the first and the Bottleneck the second. Especially relevant the bottleneck is a couloir hundred meters high. It is difficult and dangerous, it is at 8300 mt asl just 300 meters below the summit.
His action remembers us the great Walter Bonatti. He did something similar in 1965 when he is conquest the Matterhorn in winter alone by a new route the 20 February 1965. Even him he started with some friends up to remain alone. Instead of stop, he decides to climb alone.
Curiosity: Bonatti slept the whole night at 8000 mt on the Abruzzi route in 1954. Without the technical clothes of today.
Maybe Danis was inspired by him and his glorious enterprises.
What is doing Denis Urubko? simply is writing a page of mountaineering history. Probably the biggest if will have success. We hope all the best and we are waiting for good news from K2.
Stay tuned, Denis Urubko K2 solo is on.