Denis Urubko Solo K2 Polish expedition
K2 Denis Urubko
Denis Urubko solo.
As announced yesterday in the previous article, Denis Urubko has started his solo k2 summit attempt. He started without GPS and radio, a warrior without defense weapons. Consequently, there is no news about him and is not possible to have. Just him and the mountain.
Situation on the mountain
According to the K2 whether forecast, today it is a good day with low wind. From tomorrow the force of the wind will grow up to 70 km/hr. From tomorrow the situation will change. Will be a good day but the wind will be 60/65 km/hr. After tomorrow wind very strong up 75km/hr, no sun and light snow. The 28th will start with the same wind but will be better during the day, and the sun will come back.
Situation of the K2 Polish expedition 2018
This morning a short communicate arrives from the expedition:
“Atmospheric conditions are good. Marcin Kaczkan and Maciej Bedrejczuk go to C2. Marek Chmielarski and Artur Małek are on their way to C1.”
There are rumors about Denis Urubko solo has passed from the camp 1 yesterday. And he refuses to use the radio for communication with Krzysztof Wielecki. As a result, Krzysztof Wielecki didn’t speak about him this morning. It mustn’t have been nice for Krzysztof Wielecki discover the Denis Urubko solo decision. It is meaning to disagree the rules of the expedition.
But at the same time from Poland arrive the voice of Janusz Majer. He said that Urubko is a member of the expedition, and their must is to protect him.
So is probably to think that the Marcin Kaczkan and Maciej Bedrejczuk can try to reach camp 3. It will be a good position for help Denis during the descending.
What Is happening to Denis Urubko
Scenarios can be many, most probable is that he try today to arrive more hight possible. And then soon as possible to start the summit. More time pass higher is the risk, but Denis knew well this. We think Denis start because he feels himself very strong and ready for the summit. In more interview, Simone Moro said that Denis need to be guided. Because sometimes he takes dangerous choices. He has formed an army mentality.
We don’t know if Simone Moro has the reason. Any situation is different and any person can adapt himself to the new situation. We think about yesterday it seems like the Reinhold Messner Nanga Parbat event.
Reinhold in 1970 has convinced the expedition leader to say yes. But just because he understood Messner was ready to go even without his permission. Messner lost his brother almost out of the dangers. And was accused even by the expedition leader to sacrifice the brother at his hunger for success. Maybe watch the fascinating movie below the article, it is very nice.
What will happen from now?
Obviously, we don’t have a serious answer to this question. We hope the minds of the Expedition Leader and the manager will be illuminated. They need to keep the calm and we think is better support Denis Urubko in the better way. I hope they understand the cruel law of the success. Just the first will ha the glory, the second is just the first of the lasts.
Even as a rebel have a Polish passport, and the winning will be of the Polish Expedition. So, even if is difficult sometimes, is better to hide the pride and follow the target.
Another thing we need to say. The probability of the Denis Urubko solo success is few. We don’t give numbers, but he will need to go beyond himself for to go back alive. The climbing is not a problem for Denis or other climbers at his level. Maybe the descending will be the real challenge. We hope he will find especially in Bottleneck some good ropes. Otherwise, at 8300 mt in an almost vertical wall of rock and ice, 100 mt high, he will need the prayers of all us.
Be strong, Denis we are with you.
The film is in German language but with subtitles. Just you activate it with the button.