Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol new line

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Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol new line but what was wrong?

Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol new line.

We waited some days before to write again, was necessary to quite the emotions and wait for official announcements. Everyone has been shocked by the drama of Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol. We know the conclusion of the adventure, and we want to make some considerations.

Elisabeth is at Sallanches in a specialized hospital for frostbit treatment, in the desperate effort to avoid amputations of hands fingers and a foot. Yesterday she spoke about what’s happened in the Nanga Parbat, her words make some clarification about the Tomek  Mackiewicz death.

Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol – Considerations

The first consideration is regarding the time of the summit, she told they arrive at the summit at 18 pm. Is late, they lose time in the labyrinth before the summit, but it is not meaning you will die. Elisabeth is alive, even suffering the hallucinations she is alive. This problem happens when you stay a long time in the death zone, the low quantity of oxygen in the air can create the hallucination.

So maybe if Tomek on the summit doesn’t suffer from snow-blindness, now we were here to talk about something very different. The reason because Tomek remove the mask is not clear. Anyway is possible to suppose that the speed of descending from the summit was very low with Tomek in that condition.  This has grown the exposure to the lack of oxygen, and deteriorating irremediability his situation. Even the situation of Elisabeth at the same time becoming bad, but she’s strong and she goes ahead.

At 7.280 mt she finds a windy shelter and she stops, the condition of Tomek is dramatic. Elisabeth calls for rescue, she cannot do anymore, and she decides to rest waiting for rescue. In the morning the Tomek condition is at the limit, Over the frozen to the hands, feet, nose, and part of the face is starting to bleeding from the mouth, the clear symptom of edema, the last step of AMS.

Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol
This is Nanga Parbat, the mountain theatre of the drama
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Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol – She moves alone without food, drink, medicine, tent.

They communicate her to leave Tomek there and descend up to 6.000 mt where a helicopter can carry her, and then they go to rescue Tomek. She protects Tomek, and she starts to go down with anything with her. She goes down up to 6.800 mt where she decides to stop waiting for the rescue. It is not very clear if it is in this moment or before, anyway, she has hallucinations, she imagines they rescue her with worm tea, and for to thanks, she must give a boot. She remains 5 hours without the boot and this is the cause of the foot frost.

The rescuers told, they cannot pick her, is late and she needs to wait the day after for the rescue. She decides to move down instead to pass another night without protection in the Nanga Parbat. Was the correct choice, even taking a huge risk. She doesn’t know but, as we have reported in this post, In the other direction two brave friends are coming to rescue her.

According to her report from the hospital, when she is with her rescuers, probably Tomek already dies. The edema in progress, from when Elisabeth starts descending make us think this.

Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol – Maybe they were not very lucky?

Analyzing the facts, without pretending to have understood the truth, we think Tomek and Elisabeth were been not very lucky. We think, without the snow ophthalmia, after to summit Nanga Parbat, they had enough time to lose altitude very fast. They took a big risk, but they were in time to going down alive.

The same result anyway, maybe ( but is not sure) could be obtained without summit the Nanga, if they decide to go down when they stop 45 minutes before the summit.  We don’t know if was been enough to survive, but probably not.

Dr. Frédéric Champly said

Some minutes after publishing this post we found the official communicates with the medical staff of the hospital where Elisabeth is. So we integrate our considerations with the official documents. Nothing change at the end of what we told above, is confirmed that probably Tomek has died just in 4/5 hours after Elisabet left him alone, his condition was without hope. Without suffering he just sleeping and die. Just the doctor says that the problem is started because of his stomach problems in the days before. He was sick and this sickness prevented his body the regular acclimatization at the altitude of 8.000 mt. Even the ophthalmia, the Dr. Frédéric Champly said, can have many causes, not only snow-blinding, retinal ischemia is even possible in that contest.

Dr, Robert Szymczak Official information

Even regarding the decision to end the rescue operations after the Elisabet Revol rescue, there is an official communication. This is good because will stop all the discussions about the ending. In the last days, the rescue team was accused to give all the effort for to rescue Elisabet Revol and nothing for Tomek. It was true, all was concentrate in Elisabeth, but there is a reason, the rescue rules in emergency cases are strict. Don,t follow the rules can compromise the life of the rescuers and even of injured, as we anticipated in this post. The document said even that no sense to organize now another rescue for Tomek.

We think the team did over the rules of rescue, if the procedure appears regular, we can’t say the same for the Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki action. Their action has been heroic, there are no doubts but they risk their lives. According to the Adam report, they have climbed using few protections, and they use a lot the old ropes found there. They knew that rope was a danger, but is not enough for to be safe, finally, they were lucky this two heroes.

On the footer of the post, you can find the two official documents downloadable. Are in the word format so if you don’t know English and French you can easily copy and paste in Google translator.

 

Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol – the lesson of 2016

Two years ago, Nanga Parbat was conquested for the first time in the winter season from a group composed by Simone Moro, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara. In the group, there was even the climbing partner of Simone Moro, Tamara Lunger. Tamara stopped her climbing just 70 mt from the summit, she understands her limit and she is alive. Now she is with Simone in Siberia for climb a mountain in the coldest place in the heart.

Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol – Tom and Eli

As usually who don’t know mountaineering will stop his eye on the question ” why he has removed the mask??”. This question doesn’t have an answer, just Elisabeth said he had a problem with the mask. But a climber like him and with his experience knew very well the snow ophthalmia risk. He knew even that at 8.000 mt is like a death sentence.

Tom

Tomek Mackiewicz has passed his whole life in the mountains, the high altitude was his garden, Nanga Parbat his house. We want to imagine him now, looking the mountains landscape. He was a free spirit and a great climber, probably one of the last climber old style. His country can remember him proudly.

Eli

Elisabeth now has a strong time in front of her. She is tried, in the body and even in the mind. But we hope she can face this strong challenge and go back in good condition to her mountains. In the drama, the only satisfaction is the first Nanga Parbat summit in the winter using a new line ( even if is partially true ), and she is the first woman to summit one of eight-thousanders in winter. She demonstrated to be one of better high altitude woman. The new line will be called Mackiewicz Revol.

Conclusion

In conclusion of this dramatic history, one thing is evident, to understand the human limits, to understand where is necessary to stop, it is very difficult. Mostly time is better to keep even a larger margin because the problem at 8.000 mt of the oxygen level is very big. Your brain doesn’t have enough oxygen for to really understand where is the limit.

Nanga Parbat Mackiewicz Revol new line

Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol

Click on the links below to downloads the documents

Avis médical du Dr Champly à propos de Tomek

Opinion as to who took a decision not go up to Mackiewicz after joined Elisabeth

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