Nanga Parbat Rescuers Completed Mission

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Nanga Parbat Heroes Rescue Team has completed his mission

Nanga Parbat heroes rescue team has completed his mission and now is time to pay tribute to the actors of this drama.

Elisabeth Revol is in the Helicopter going to Skardu where she will receive the first aid. As reported by Ludovic Giambiasi, a friend of Elisabeth, the plan is already on. Asap she can arrive in France at a medical center specialized in frostbite. Our best wishes to be well soon and return to her mountains, among his dreams. Maybe can be a help for her the love arrived from a lot of people around the world. Social media has amplified the news from Nanga Parbat. To know this very strong girl, alone in a sea of ice in a mountain named ” Killer mountain ” for days and nights with no water no food and even sick, has created emotion even in who don’t know anything about High Altitude Mountaineering.

The heroes of the rescue team

The Nanga Parbat heroes are the Polish expedition to winter climb of K2, when they knew about the Nanga Parbat issue gave his availability to organize the rescue team. Three Polish climbers, Adam Bielecki, Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala plus the famous Russian Denis Urubko.  Adam Bielecki made the first ascent in winter of the Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak, is a very good climber and is even young.

Denis Urubko, there is no doubt, is one of the better high-altitude and eight-thousanders climber. Awarded with the Piolet d’Or in 2010 for the ascent in 2009 of Cho Oyu in pure alpine style by a new route. Awarded with the Asian Piolet d’Or 2011 and the Snow Leopard 1999. Cho Oyu was the last of 14 eight-thousanders climbed all by Denis Urubko without the oxygen supply. Two of the eight-thousanders was climbed in first winter ascent with Simone Moro ( a magic team ). In total, he climbed the eight-thousanders 19 times.

Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala are less famous for Denis and Adam but sure are good climbers.

The rescue mission

From the beginning, the mission appeared desperate, in one small video Adam tell about it, in his words you find all the doubt for to arrive at Tomek, the altitude is high, the helicopters can arrive just to 6.000 mt. From there to Tomek is 1.250 mt of difference, they must go up and is not a problem for Denis and Adam, but you need to come back, other 1.250 mt.

A lot of problems there are, what about Tomek conditions? surely he is very sick.

Is possible to carry him down on the ice wall for 1.250 mt? impossible to know.

And if is possible, and the weather condition change? Can they go down to camp 1? The forecast said: snow from the morning in progress growing.

More than 3.000 mt down after 1.250 up. How long time need? how many people? is possible to survive?

For us a rescue in this condition is a suicide, the only hope Tomek had, was the possibility to find helicopters authorized over 7.000 mt with at least two climbers and ready to carry the injured directly from the place where he is.

The rule of the rescue

The main rule of the rescue at any level said: the rescuers will do all the possible for to save the injured, but no at the risk of their life. In case of an accident at the rescuers will have two died instead of one. Which possibility have the injured if his rescuers will be even him injured. For this reason, the rescue has a limit.

Anyway, in the mountains rescue, most times the rescuers take an incredible risk for help climbers in difficult. Is maybe because even they are Mountaineers and climbers? Or maybe because the Mountaineers are very generous? or maybe because they are volunteers?  We don’t know but one thing is sure, if you are a mountaineer, when you are in mountain and you hear the helicopter coming, you think ” we hope will be a good rescue, stay strong, angels are coming “.[wp_bannerize group=”inarticle”]

The decision

Nanga Parbat The GPS track of the rescue by Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki
This pic is not actual, don’t show the actual conditions of the mountain. The yellow points show the incredible timeline of the ascending of Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki. Especially in the key step of the Kinshofer route. The rock wall climbed in the night probably with a temperature around -40. Heroes

Probably the Nanga Parbat forecast suggests the decision of rescue Elisabeth before, and then evaluate eventually the Tomek rescue.

The team of the volunteers ( i need to remark they are volunteers ) start from K2 base camp in the afternoon. They arrive at the Nanga Parbat base camp in short time.

Time for prepare the mission and flight to the mountain, darkness is coming, is late. The weather condition is not the best. At 6.000 mt there is mist so they decide to be dropped a little bit below camp 1, around 4.700 mt.

As we know, the Elisabeth rescue is started not very well. The mist can’t permit to arrive with the helicopter at the 6.300 mt where Elisabeth was. Just one possibility remains, leave Adam and Denis close camp 1 around 4.700 mt. For who is not expert the camp 1 or 2 and so on, are only the position where usually the Mountaineers put their tents, there is anything there.

The action

The Nanga Parbat heroes are in action and the epic battle of the rescue is started, we saw the great athletic conditions and acclimatizing of Nanga Parbat heroes Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko. In two hours they climb 700 mt in the darkness. According to the GPS track. At two in the night after 8/9 hours on an iced and strong route, they meet Elisabeth Revol.

It was many doubts about the meeting time because nobody knew the condition of the Kinshofer Rock Wall. It is a step of 80 mt vertical rocks, classified as the key step of the route. In the pic, at the beginning of the post, you can see Adam and Elisabeth descending from the rock wall. The group ropes you can see, are insecure, so better to arrange your own ropes.

After meeting they decide to rest 2/3 hours and then start to go down. According to the picture, you can see they arrive at the Rock Wall at the first lights of the day.  After the wall, the difficulties have not finished, the rest of the route up to camp 1 is hard and iced, but at the end, absolutely tired and destroyed they arrive at the meeting point waiting for the Helicopter.

The Nanga Parbat heroes are two and this is the history of one night in the winter on Nanga Parbat, we want to say thanks to Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki. Now they are a great example for the new generations, in a world where all is appearance, they show what is meaning to be real mans. The thanks even to Jarek Botor and Piotr Tomala.

Greats, Greats, and Greats again!!

But all the operation it was made possible because of the effort of some people. Their work has been invisible in the light of the media. One is Ludovic Giambiasi, Manager of Elisabeth, he kept anyone informed through his Facebook profile, and he worked hard to manage the organization included the fundraising necessary for to rescue Elisabeth and Tomek. Many people worked hard in this and we don’t know them, just we know the support of Daniele Nardi, an Italian climber expert in Nanga Parbat which was in Nanga Parbat with Elisabeth. And we know the support of Agostino da Polenza, another Italian climber, expert manager of many eight-thousanders expeditions and Director of Montagna.tv.

The summit of Nanga Parbat By Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol

They have obtained a great winner, they are the first one to reach the summit of Nanga Parbat in the winter through a new line. In fact, they have used the Messner Eisendle, a line not completed by the great Reinhold Messner.

The names of Tomek Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol are part of the modern mountaineering history and nobody can erase it.

I leave here special links, is the Facebook profile of Tomek Mackiewicz where you can see more of him and the beautiful words of his  wife

and the Facebook profile of Elisabeth Revol where you can see more about this great mountaineer.

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