Simone Moro & Tamara Lunger, a new adventure in the coldest inhabited place of the earth.
Simone Moro is an Italian climber famous because of his attitude to climb very difficult mountains in the winter season. In the last years, he concentrates his challenges on the winter climbing of Himalayan 8000 Mt mountains. The beginning in 2005 with Shisha Pangma, in 2009 Makalu, in 2011 Gasherbrum II and in 2016 the Nanga Parbat. He has the record of first winter ascent in four of the eight-thousanders. He reached the peak of eight of eight-thousanders.
One of his historical climbing partners is Denis Urubko, a great Russian climber, maybe one of the greatest. With Denis Urubko, Simone more climbs the Everest.
The Everest will be climbed by Simone in a total of 4 times. Another unforgettable partner of Simone Moro was the Russian Anatoli Boukreev. Unfortunately, during the ascent of the face south of Annapurna Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev die under a terrible avalanche, just Simone Moro survive.
This year, he’ll start expedition on 22 January for a great adventure. Will be in a place known to the readers of our blog. He will go to Siberia in the area of Oymyakon, the inhabit village coldest of the world. Partner in the adventure is Tamara Lunger, a very good and strong Italian climber. Tamara was with him even in Nanga Parbat where she decides to renounce just 70 meters below the summit!! She demonstrated her greatness, is hard to take decisions so difficult at 8000 mt of altitude.
Will be a very difficult challenge for many reasons, we try to analyze the main.
in Oymyakon is normally in winter season around minus 50 degrees C.
The record recorded of minus 71 was in a place 700 mt higher of the village. Anyway, this temperature is considerate in no wind condition. In case of wind, the perceived temperature by the body will grow, directly proportional to the increase in wind speed.
Even the altitude decrease the temperature, the lapse rate is between 5 to 10 degrees every 1000 mt. It depends on the humidity present in the air.
So is difficult to estimate the temperature which Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger will find on the mountain.
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger will climb the Pik Pobeda, it is high 3003 mt and probably at the top. They will find at least minus 60/65 degrees if they are lucky. If you want to understand better when the climbers arrive at the summit of the Everest is minus 35 C. In winter, is lower, will be minus 45, and are 8843 mt.
Rescue in case of problems
the rescue is totally absent, no one possibility of external help in reasonable time. In a television interview, Simone said they are ready for to do a very fast ascent. Is the only possibility to survive there, he said. They will put the tent under snow and take advantage of the igloo effect.
Anyway they know is difficult, and at that temperature. Even the super technology of their sleeping bag is not enough to survive.
Technically the wall is maybe medium difficult, the altitude is low. It is something like Dolomiti or Alps where Simone and Tamara come from. In Dolomiti and Alps, there are walls much more difficulty. The low temperature, anyway change the game even a simple wall can become an awful snare.
In the last television interview, Simone Moro said he didn’t train for the cold but he trains the body. As we know Simone Moro is maniacal when preparing his adventures. The body must to be at the top and mind the same. Is the secret to bringing the backpack home.
Maybe someone of our readers can think this adventure is not at the level of the previous in Himalaya. Personally, I think these experiences are not comparable. In the Nanga Parbat, there is the extreme altitude. especially relevant the technical difficulties in the wall, lack of oxygen and avalanche danger. In Oymyakon is the temperature the real danger. Imagine the Oymyakon inhabitants can’t use glasses because can remain attached to the skin. So in conclusion, the comparison is possible just between similar experiences.
We will follow the expedition and we keep our readers informed about the evolution.
Good luck Simone & Tamara and bring the backpack home.